Long Ride 2016 - reflection

In the days, weeks, since my accident on the Great Central Road it's been a great time to reflect.  Questions have been posed and answered, initial disappointment turned to thanks and planning for the future. 



The good doctor ... watching Valentino Rossi
win yet another MotoGP race was enough
motivation to get up and get on with it!

Immediately after the accident, I came around in the trauma ward of the Royal Perth Hospital.  Initially I was confused and worried about what lay ahead.  Apparently whilst laying in the Western Australian desert I had made mention that that was it for me and bikes, there was no doubt now that the BMW F800GS would be written off, and with that I had announced I would buy a 4wd and caravan. 

 

I had taken a pretty serious blow to the head.  My GPS tracker said I had gone from around 100 kilometres per hour to zero in the space of 2 metres.  I had gone over the handlebars as the forks had compressed.  The top and right handside of my helmet (Bell MX-9) indicated that I had landed on my head and also right shoulder however, it also seemed that as the 300+ kilogram bikes forks had rebounded from the severe compression the bike had been sent skyward and then came down on my head as I lay on the track.  The evidence from the large fist size indentation on the back of my helmet suggests that the right handlebar and brake fluid reservoir and hit me. 

 

The helmet had certainly done its job although, it had been turned around on my head, with

such force that it had actually cut my head in a number of places - I've never had this happen before but would suggest that a well fitting helmet should move so much.

 

Obviously the talk of never riding again and turning to a caravan was down to the concussion ... it was never really going to happen, NEVER!

 

Diagnoses at the Royal Perth Hospital was indeed a concussion, severe enough to burst a number of blood vessels in my right eye.  There was also a few cracked ribs, can't do much about that.  A broken right collarbone, at both ends meaning the bone was floating.  Again, not a lot can be done about that and having had one before I knew it was just a waiting game.  The main injury was diagnosed as severely torn ligaments down the entire length of my neck.  The doctors had said that I was extremely lucky to have not severed my spinal column, no need to explain what that means.  I would be confined to a pretty restricted life for at least the next three months.  Initially I was quite depressed but over a week it dawned on me just how lucky I had been.

 

Once home from Perth, the recovery began in earnest.  I told myself I needed to get back on a bike as quickly as possible and so the plan was to let the neck do what it needed to do, I can't tell you how much you use your neck until you can't, in many ways it affects your whole body but there was nothing I could do about this just yet.

 

The shoulder on the other hand was a different story.  Immediately I started movement exercises to try and keep the muscles active.  This definitely helped when the rehab began at six weeks after the accident, at the point of writing this (9 weeks) the movement is certainly coming back.

 

The mental rehabilitation was kept on track by planning a new ride back to the scene of the accident.  Many people mentioned to me that riding a motorcycle should be off the list, at least in remote areas where the track conditions might not always be favourable.  This was never an option.

 

While I could've sat at home and wondered why I had let a desert track cause such injuries and destroy my bike, and to be honest a few times it did cross my mind, I didn't let this become a demotivator instead using it as a reason to go back and finish the ride across one of the worlds largest deserts.

 

A great motivator were the people of the town of Laverton, nearest to where the accident had taken place.

 

From the scene of the accident to getting home and the weeks after, this great little community have been wonderful in helping, often giving up their own time and money to ensure my fellow riders and myself were looked after.

 

I can't thank Gary, Lorena, Denise, Ellie and Rex enough for what you did for me and the others.  You not only helped get me out of the desert safely but also ensured everyone was looked after and not having to worry about themselves. 

 

The staff at the Laverton Hospital also need to be mentioned.  They were fantastic in looking after me, I'm sorry, I don't remember any of your names, you know who you are and how wonderful you all are.

 A very special thank you has to be made to Rabbit (Les Hitchcock).  Mate, what you did to help get the bikes back to Melbourne is simply one of the most generous things I have ever seen or heard of anyone doing.  Your generosity just can't be thanked enough, but I'll bloody well try.

 

In the lead up to the ride to Laverton I had heard so many bad things, many of it from blogs written by caravaners, 4 wheel drive clubs and just tourists in general, about this small community.  I have no doubt it has some issues, like most places do, but if you are reading this then please don't believe anything else you read about Laverton.  It is the most wonderful place, made so by the people who live and work there.  Every single one of them.

 

It's places like Laverton why I ride, and especially ride into paces many other people don't or won't go.  It's not a tourist hub, it's not commercial, it's a little worn out and dirty, but it has something special, something very special.  The people, the community.  They look after each other and look after complete strangers, giving much more of themselves than what they receive.

 

The people of Laverton have a special pride, a special respect, a special sense of community.  I can't thank them alll enough but to say I will be back.

 

To thannk the people of Laverton as best I can I am planning on riding back in 2017.  A 3,500 kilometre ride from Laverton (suburb of Melbourne) in Victoria to Laverton, Western Australia.  Across the Nullarbor Plain and up into the goldfields.  This is an invertation for you all to join me.  More details will follow however, if you are interested now please contact me at leigh.wilkins@bigpond.com, I can guarantee it will be a great ride across a unique part of the world and we'll have a hell of a lot of fun along the way.

Long Ride 2016 - Day 15

April 22, 2016

Laverton, WA to ... somewhere on the Great Central Road

April 22 started like any other day on the Long Ride 2016.  The morning sun was warm and it brought an air of excitement as we prepared for the Great Central Road, a 1200km stretch of desert track that would take us across the Great Victoria Desert to Uluru (Ayers Rock).

 

The day got even better as we packed the bikes, our accommodation, at the Desert Inn Hotel was surprisingly good.  I'd been told that we would be in Donga's, a portable cabin normally used for workers in these parts of the world.  From the outside they weren't anything special, on the inside they were modern, clean and spacious.  It was a pleasant surprise and very cheap at just $50 per room.  As I packed I noticed a small cry coming from the end of the cabin, underneath it.  A small kitten, perhaps a week or so old, was looking for its mother, no doubt a feral.

 

I'm not a cat person, in fact it's probably fair to say that I hate them and the destruction they do to both native flora and fauna but this little fellow was adorable.  We quickly befriended each other.  The day was getting better.

 

The Desert Inn Hotel, a must in Laverton.  They helped play
a major role in getting me home safe.

Once packed and fuelled we headed to the small delicatessen that adjoined the pub.  The food was simple, but fresh and very well cooked.  I had a toasted sandwich and a tub of fruit salad, delicious.  We ate at the front of the pub, in the warming sun, discussing how we would tackle the dirt road across the desert, agreeing that we'd stop every 50 kilometres unless something took our interest, in which we would all stop if in agreance.  Watching the town awaken in the sun, the day was getting better.

 

Bidding farewell to our hosts at the Desert Inn we headed north-east to begin the journey across the desert.  We rode around 2 kilometres on sealed road and then there was the dirt.  A roadtrain, a truck with 4 trailers, was preparing to take the same journey, as was a Toyota Landcruiser and caravan, the occupants dropping their tyre pressures in readiness for the sand and rocks.

 

Despite recent heavy rains, the road was in reasonably good condition.  It was certainly corrugated in places but nothing too drastic.  The riding was good, we slowed at one stage to let another traveller pass, we continued on.

 

Our first stop, Cosmo Newberry, was just 90 kilometres along the Great Central Road, easy going, I was looking forward to getting there and seeing the first of many places we'd see that a lot of others don't.

 

Suddenly one of group stopped, pulling off the road, it was clear that the rider in the lead was unaware and kept going.  The rider that pulled off the track informed us that he needed to use the toilet.  I was flabbergasted, what grown man can only ride for 40 kilometres, perhaps 45 minutes, before needed to take a shit?  Couldn't he wait a little longer? Why didn't he go before we left town?

 

Annoyed, I informed everyone I  would continue on and catch up with the unaware rider.  The riding was still good, the corrugations were a little worse but at a steady pace they were manageable, in fact I was enjoying the riding over the bumps, the constant juddering wasn''t that bad.  I looked forward, the day was getting better ...

 

Shit! Why is there an immense pain down the right side of my body?  Where the hell am I? I hear a vehicle coming, it slows, it passes.  The bike is on top of me ...

 

There's voices, swearing, panicked.  The bike is still on top of me.  There's still pain. The pain in my right shoulder is familiar.  I'll take a little nap ...

 

I'm sitting up, the bike no longer on top of me.  The pain in my shoulder is now intense, it doesn't matter, my chest is beginning to go numb, as is my neck despite a slight underlying ache.  The voices are still present, still slightly panicked yet now more decisive.  They're discussing whether the emergency beacon on the Spot Gen3 should be activated.  Where are we?  How long until we get to Broken Hill?  The emergency beacon is pushed.  I'll close my eyes and have another little sleep ...

 

Angels.  A couple from Taiwan, on an adventure, stopped to
help.  I would  really like to know who they are so that I can
personally thank the.

"Shit, he's bleeding!" Someone's removed my helmet.  Did I ask them to?  Do they know not to remove a helmet unless the rider is having trouble breathing?  Surely they do, most of us have done first aid training.  It doesn''t matter.  Will we be in Broken Hill soon?  Why are the instruments hanging off my bike? Strange.  I'll just close my eyes a little ...

 

Voices talking, away from me.  An Asian accent.  What's happening?  The voice tells me they will be cutting my gloves to remove them, I'm fine with that, just don't cut my jacket.  Oh, it's already been done.  I'm prodded and poked, pulse taken, spoken to about things that seem unimportant.  I'm pretty sure we'll be in Broken Hill soon, but why are the instruments hanging from my bike? It doesn't matter, I'm exhausted.  I'll take another sleep ...

 

"Leigh, Leigh, how are you going? My name is ... ", the voice trails off, there's a four wheel drive with us now.  The police from Laverton have arrived.  Have I done something wrong?  Aren't they a long way from home, we are on our way to Broken Hill.  I'm glad they're here, they might be able to help with the pain.  I feel ill.  Vomit can't be too far away.  If I close my eyes it will pass ...

 

"G'day mate!  How are you feeling?  My name is Eleanor, you can call me Elle.  Do you know your name?"  This voice is comforting.  An ambulance is here.  A light is being shone in my eyes.  My left arm is being constricted, my blood pressure taken.  I'm conversing with the voices, not really taking anything in. The pain is still intense, I inhale through a tube, it tastes "like arse".  The pain is easing.  Oh wow, I have to take another sleep, this day is very tiring ...

 

"Leigh! Leigh! Mate, don't close your eyes.  Stay awake," it's Eleanor.  In a soothing way she's being quite forceful.  The voices seen muffled, I'm no longer on the ground, in the dirt.  I'm lying down, on a bed, in an ambulance.  Wow! This must be serious.  I have tubes from my arm.  There's wires attached to my chest.  The pain is almost non-existent, I guess we are on our way to Broken Hill.  I wonder if someone will put the instruments back on my bike.  It doesn't matter, I'll have a little sleep ...

 

"OK Leigh, time to wake up mate," why do these people keep waking me up?  "We're back in town."

 

Strangely I feel underwhelmed, there were no bells and whistles.  In fact it was quite a slow ride into town, I'm strapped to some sort of inflated bed, I can't move. 

 

I'm pushed through a small waiting room, an aboriginal lady looks at me from above, she smiles but looks concerned.  I'm pushed into a room, a pretty doctor smiles and asks how I am.  The paramedics start talking with the hospital staff.  There's talk about a motorcycle accident.  I hope the poor bugger is OK.  They shave my right arm and insert a needle, tubes are now pumping fluid into my left arm and two tubes are attached to my right arm, something is being injected into it.

 

The people in the room are talking about a broken clavicle, I know what that's like.  They also speak in hushed tones about fractures to the ribs and neck, and possible paralysis.  Wait!  They are talking about me.  I must looked worried, the pretty doctor smiles again and tells me not to worry, they will call the Royal Flying Doctor Service to take me to Perth so that tests and scans can be done.  This is serious.  Suddenly I'm jolted back to reality, the pain is intense, I feel sick ... I'm scared.

 

As the doctor explains that she needs to put a cafeter in my penis, it starts to dawn on me how serious this is.  I have indeed had another accident, much worse than the one 18 months earlier.  So serious that I don't seem to care what has happened to the bike.  Bits and pieces start to make some sense.  It's all very tiring, and for the first time the medical professionals let me have some sleep.

 

I'm woken some time later, being told that the aircraft has landed.  The RFDS are here to take me to Perth.  I'm wheeled out to the ambulance then driven the short distance to where the aeroplane is waiting for me.  It's a horrible feeling having all this happen while you lay flat on your back, you know you are moving but have no idea where you are going.  I'm greeted by three ladies, the pilot, a doctor and a nurse.  They reassure me that everything will be alright.  I'm desperately trying to get a look at the aircraft, terrified that it will be one of the GAF Nomads that I worked on as a young apprentice - they were the aircraft of choice for the RFDS not that long ago.

 

Aboard the plane, my initial carers wish me well, I mumble something about seeing them again.  The pilot explains something about the flight, it's a direct flight and should take around 90 minutes, the weather is good but there could be some rough stuff.  The doctor tells me she will give me more morphine, it should make me sleep for most of the flight.  I'm thankful.  We take off, I close my eyes, and drift away ...

 

I'm woken and we land in the Western Australia capital city.  The RFDS crew wish me well as I am loaded aboard ambulance for a 20 minute ride to Royal Perth Hospital.  I'm in pain, lots of pain, I feel pain in my feet and hands, I'm thankful. 

 

I'm wheeled into RPH, a rush of faces and names, it's overwhelming.  I'm exhausted, every time I close my eyes, someone asks if I am with them.  Come on, please, let me sleep.  More fluids are pumped into both my arms, the pain is no longer there, I feel nauseous.  I'm xrayed laying down, on my back and on my side.  The staff seem satisfied, I'm wheeled into a room.  I'm left alone. 

 

I have a serious urge to pee. 

 

I fall asleep ...

Long Ride 2016 - Day 14

April 21, 2016

Lake Ballard, WA to Laverton, WA - 273km (5,591km)

Day 14's blog is a little delayed due to an incident on Day 15, leaving me to type with just a left hand, and anyone who knows me knows that's not a pretty sight.  More of that later.

 

The day started perfectly, up before dawn to watch the sunrise magnificently over the Lake Ballard sculptures.  The fire from the night before had kept going fending off some of the dawn chill.

 

Dawn at Lake Ballard

As the black of night slowly gave way to the warm oranges and reds as the sun rose the brilliance of the Australian desert became apparent.  I sat on my own taking it all in, animals foraging for food, birds calling to each other from the undergrowth.  It was a truly magical moment.



With the sun breaking above the horizon the still beings on the lake seemed to take on life as their shadows stretched then moved across the salt flat.  I sat in awe watching it all take place.

 

As the others clambered from their tents it looked as though it would be a great day, our last day of bitumen for a while.

 

We started breakfast and laughed about what a great ride it had been so far, one of our group strolled off on to the lake to enjoy the beauty as those remaining packed up our gear.

 

Upon return, the rider who went walking, came back with a new attitude and tore into all of us for no apparent reason.  It was shocking and embarrassing, the tension that boiled up left a nasty stain on the morning.

 

We continued packing and returned to the road that would lead us back to Menzies.  It was a comfortable ride however, the tension was still present.

 

The remoteness of Lake Ballard keeps the tourist hoards away
... for now!

Early in the morning, the small town of Menzies was amazing.  We refuelled at a former roadhouse which, was now just a self serve station, fully automated.  The external walls were adorned with registration plates from all over the world.  In its own way it was quite spectacular.  Once the bikes were full we went down the road to a cafe that would look more at home in a Melbourne laneway.  The coffee was as good as any in Melbourne, a great surprise when you consider we were almost 1,500km from the nearest major city. 

 

Menzies' unique self serve servo

Over the coffee we decided we would leave the main road on the way to Laverton and head towards Kookynie, a former mining town now billed as a living ghost town.

 

The road in was quite good, obviously constructed to cater for the slightly more adventurous tourists.  The gravel laid in places was a little thick and caused the bikes to squirm but was nothing too bad.

 

Kookynie once boasted a population of over 3,500 but now has less than 10.  In its hey day the town had 11 hotels and ts own

brewery, and 4 trains per day from Kalgoorlie.  Although a ghost town many of the original buildings are still intact, a greater reminder of the past.

 

A highlight of the town is the only operating pub left, the Grand Hotel.  From the front it doesn't look any different from outback pubs, on the inside it's pretty much a museum, with a great collection from the past.

 

It was a great way to take a refreshing drink before heading back off into the desert, the

The ghost town of Kookynie, well worth visiting

day was starting to get quite hot, probably the hottest experienced so far and perhaps a prelude of what was to come.  The Grand Hotel truly was grand, in its own way, an oasis in the desert.

 

We continued on and soon hit dirt.  The road was good but obviously a trucking route, it was badly corrugated in places and quite rough.  A comfortable pace was around 70kph, a little slow but it felt safe. It took us just under an hour to reach the bitumen and while it was good to be back on the black stuff (although its very rarely black out here),

the dirt felt right.

 

We soon pulled over and took over final break of the day before the last 100km to Laverton.  I trudged off into the scrub to go to the toilet, two things struck me, how green and wet it was and the size of the bullants.  They seemed harmless enough, perhaps having enough to feed on after the recent rains.  In recent weeks Laverton had received over 100mm of rain, almost half of the annual amount.

 

We continued on to Laverton, with a population of around 400 (around 1/3 are aboriginal) it marks the western end of 'civilisation' before taking on the deserts of central Australia.

 

It was amazing too see such a dry arid landscape with so many full creeks and rivers, the green of the plants was astounding.

 

We'd been warned about Laverton and how rough it could be, what we actually found was a hard working community where the locals took a great pride in 'their' community.

 

The local information centre has a fantastic interpretive museum that's well worth visiting.  Staff at the local supermarket were extremely helpful as were those at the local pub, our accommodation for the night.  Day 15 would give some indication to just how great this town and its people really are.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Long Ride 2016 - Day 13

April 20, 2016

Kalgoorlie, WA to Lake Ballard, WA - 201km (5,318km / 383km dirt)

If one thing never ceases to amaze me it's the impact that we humans have had, and continue to have, on the environment.  If you want to see this first hand, in very dramatic ways, visit the goldfields area of Western Australia, starting with Kalgoorlie.

 

With a day of only 200 kilometres planned we spent the morning looking around the famous 'wild west' town.  Truth is, it is nothing like what I expected.

 

Kalgoorlie, for me, always had a reputation of being a town of brawling miners and prostitutes.  It really is nothing like that.  Yes, there's miners and no doubt prostitutes, there's plenty of 'scimpy' bars which, I guess is one of the attractions of the town. 

 

I found Kalgoorlie to be quite safe, it's certainly one of the cleanest towns / cities I have ever been to, so much so that first thing in the morning the council were pressure washing the footpaths, collecting rubbish, and mustering shopping trolleys.  It's an approach that I think every other council in Australia could learn from.

 

Breakfast on The Palace Hotel balcony

Eating a takeaway breakfast from Relish Kalgoorlie on the balcony of The Palace Hotel was a perfect start to the day.  The sun was rising and it was great watching Kalgoorlie come to life.

 

The Palace Hotel is right in the middle Kalgoorlie, and although the room rates were a little high, the service and standard was fantastic, a great way to spend the last night of 'civiliation' for a while.

 

Entrance to The Palace Hotel ... impressive

In it's day The Palace was the epitome of the gold rush in Western Australia.  Built in 1897 it was built from stone quarried in the area, was the first building to have electricity using it's own generator, and also the first to have running fresh water piped to all of its bathrooms.  To this day it has a special presence and even has a link to America's past, as former president Herbert Hoover resided there when he was working in the Australian goldfields.

 

This one building is the prime example of the architecture you see everywhere in this town, if you're into Australia's history through buildings it is a must visit place.  As far as towns go I would put it right up there with Broken Hill and Cooper Pedy as being some of my favourite towns.  No matter where you look there's something interesting in Kalgoorlie and the people seem to take pride in it, I know it's had its problems and probably still does but it looks like it is doing something to overcome these issues and start tapping into a market (tourism) that will sustain it well beyond the mining.

 

Another example of the architecture in Kalgoorlie

The next stop was what they call the 'Super Pit' the first indication as to the affect that humans are having on the landscape around here.

 

The 'Super Pit' is a hole, a very big hole and it is actually quite impressive to look at.  I found myself wanting to watch the goings on for hours, it was like watching an automated toy belonging to a giant child.  At the same time I kept thinking, "what the hell are they going to do with it once it's spent and can no longer provide the gold that comes from it".

 

The Super Pit and Kalgoorlie itself, for that matter, sits on what is known as the Golden Mile, one of the richest gold deposits in the world. 

 

Super Pit ... one hell of a big hole

Originally the Super Pit was a collection of smaller ones until they were combined in the late 1980's under the Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines company was formed and turned the smaller pits into one gigantic one.

 

They tell you mind blowing facts about what comes out of the pit each year, 800,000 ounces of gold from a total of 8.8million ounces.  It sounds impressive until you hear that they only take 2 grams of gold from every tonne of rock dug from the ground.  I can't get my head around the fact that despite the value of gold it just doesn't really seem economically sound ... maybe I'm just a bit thick.

Words can't explain how big these trucks are ...

 

It's said that the mine will only remain operating for another 13 years, and quite possibly close up much sooner, and when it does close it will be 3.5 kilometres long, 1.5 kilometres wide and almost 1 kilometre deep.  That really is a big hole, but what happens after that?

 

Besides the size of the hole and the machines that work the mine the other thing that really amazed me was the holes in the walls of the pit.  These are old mines when the miners worked in the traditional way, tunnelling.  In fact they say there's over 3,500 kilometres of tunnels underneath Kalgoorlie.

 

... the thing that fills the trucks

This then led us to the Kalgoorlie Mining Museum where it gave a great idea to the life that the early miners in the area had.  In many ways it was the same as what you'd expect in Ballarat or Bendigo, a bloody hard life for very little reward.

 

The museum contained an interesting history of aboriginal life in the area too, as well as prehistoric fauna and flora including some of remains of Australia's mega-fauna, but a section dedicated to adoption is what struck me.

 

It wasn't really adoption, more abduction, as many children were removed from their mothers at birth for the most ridiculous of reasons.  It tied in with National Sorry Day, and the treatment of Aboriginals during the stolen generations however, this also included white children.  The stolen generations did happen, but not only to Australia's indigenous people, it was happening to all Australians.

 

Probably one of Australia's narrowest pubs

Reading the stories of mothers who never knew their children for no reason of their own made me tear up a little, it still does.  Not that long ago we were a pretty barbaric people.

 

It was now time to leave Kalgoorlie and start heading in a northerly direction towards the start of the Great Central Road.

 

The 150 kilometres or so to the small town of Menzies was a pretty uninspiring one.  The occasional open cut mine blotted the landscape, mining all sorts of things from gold to nickel and tin, there's even a uranium mine out here.  In some place there was evidence that nature was starting to reclaim what man had taken from it by way of the outer

Menzies' tribute to the war dead

walls of the mines being covered with the plants that grow in this harsh environment.  It was sort of an encouraging site.

 

Reaching Menzies, I was surprised to see just how small the town is, in fact only 150 people live here, yet like Kalgoorlie, they seem to have a great pride in the town.  A small team of workers, including stonemasons, were busy readying a memorial for ANZAC day.  The mural adorning the wall of the town hall was a perfect tribute to the mateship and bravery of the men from the region who volunteered to fight a war they knew nothing about.  The town hall itself was a tribute to the former wealth in towns like this, it's a shame that many of the buildings no longer exist.

 

Menzies waited 100 years to get a town hall clock

Menzies, in its heyday, was as important as Kalgoorlie and had a population of over 10,000 people, staggering when you consider what remains of it.

 

An amazing story is that the town hall didn''t have a clock fitted until 100 years after it was constructed.  The building was finished in 1901 however, the ship carrying the clock (in 1905) sank leaving the building without its centrepiece.  This brought an air of bad luck to the town and almost immediately the population started to dwindle.  To commemorate the significance of this, the towns people had a clock fitted in 2000.

 

Walking around Menzies you get a feel for the significance of the place as well as the pride that the current population has in it.  In many ways it reminds me of the town of Steiglitz on the outskirts of Geelong, it too boomed for a very short period due to gold fever.

 

These day Menzies is becoming famous for another reason, and another example of how man is changing the environment, and this time for the better.

 

A road at the edge of town takes you to an unremarkable dirt road.  The road leads into nowhere, past a few old mines and grazing land.  Fifty three kilometres later you reach a turn off to a place called Lake Ballard.

 

Like so many of the 'lakes' out this way, it isn't a lake that contains water like a normal lake, it's a salt flat.  Having said that, the area had received significant rain in recent weeks and there was some surface water in places towards the middle of the huge expanse of salt.

 

Inside Australia ... Lake Ballard

Like the road leading to this place, the lake itself is quite unremarkable until you look closer.  There's people out there, many, many people.  Amazingly, there's 51 people out on the salt pan and although they are all stationary, they seem to have life, movement, energy.

 

These are the work of renowned British artist Antony Gormley and were installed in 2003.  They were set to only be there for a short period of time however, thankfully, they have been left in place and now

It's not just the art, that's the art

form an important tourist attraction to the area.

 

Scattered amongst 10 square kilometres, the 'people' represent the local indigenous community and although they have an alien like appearance, they offer something magical.  I ended up walking amongst many of them until nightfall.  There's no doubt that there's something magical about this place, and although I would hate to see it destroyed by hoards of tourists, I think everyone should see it.

 

That night, as we sat around the fire and discussed the stark beauty of Lake Ballard, a strange thing happened.  In the quiet a whistle sound buzzed above our heads, as if something had flown past at high speed.  It was a sound much like an aircraft or racing machine flying past without the sound of the engine, just the wind noise.  Three of us heard it, but what was it?  We had no idea, but I'd like to think it was part of the mystery of Lake Ballard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Long Ride 2016 - Days 11 & 12

April 18 & 19, 2016

Perth, WA to Kalgoorlie, WA - 637km (5,117km)

Day 11 of the Long Ride was essentially a lay day, a chance to go over the bikes and ensure they were ready for the next stage of the journey.

 

Chains were checked and lubricated, tensions adjusted.  Brakes were checked, as were tyres for wear and condition.  Spokes checked and rims too, one was found to have three flat spots in it, probably due to hitting rocks a little too hard - not much can be done it will have to do.

 

Filters and fluids were also checked, in all the BMW F800GS's were holding up well.  With the piece of mind of the bikes being in good condition, the contingencies for the next stage were planned, especially of the rain would keep up the way it was at the moment.

 

Checking the bike over on the rest day

Two nights staying with Ali, Brian and kids was a great way to recuperate and very much appreciated, but it was soon time to get back on the bike and start heading east.

 

Day 12 started with a very definite threat of rain, so the wet weather gear was on, and would stay on for the entire day ... I sweat so much I think I lost a few kilograms.

 

The route would see a direct path to Kalgoorlie, along the Great Eastern Highway, it's pretty much the only way to the gold mining town from Perth.

 

The first stop was at Cunderdin around 160km away from Perth.  At first it didn't look much more than a roadhouse, but a pretty good roadhouse it was.  Fuel was reasonably priced and the food was good, great coffee and the biggest grapes I have ever seen, they tasted great.

 

Dougie's Roadhouse

The place was called Dougie's, and while we were the only customers, they were very obliging.  The young guy operating the register was from India and had a joke that his family were all over Australia, we just had to find them.  Lovely bloke.

 

The bike were refuelled so it was time to get going again, we had a lot of distance to cover and hopefully before the rains arrived, they'd been threatening even more in the past half hour or so.

 

Leaving Dougie's Roadhouse we thought we had seen the entire town however, around the next bend was a whole town and quite an impressive one, especially when we saw an Ettamogah Pub.  This is the third one that opened after Albury and the Sunshine Coast.  It was quite a funny thing to see in the middle of nowhere although, unlike that cartoon it wasn't just in the middle of a paddock.  I wish we'd had enough time to stop and have a look at it.

 

We rode on for another 100km before stopping at Merredin and another roadhouse to fuel a few of the other bikes and stretch the legs.  We'd been following the path of a giant water pipe for the entire distance from Perth and it was at Merredin that we realised that it was to provide water to Kalgoorlie and the Goldfields. 

 

Merredin is said to be named after something the local Aborigines in the 1800's were saying, but to this day no-one really knows for sure what it refers to.  The town was essentially established during the Western Australian gold rush of the 1890, and in many ways still survives because of that.

 

While this whole area is where it is because of the goldfields the landscape itself was nothing like what I thought it would be.  It was primarily wheat growing fields, not the scrubby semi arid bush that I thought it would be, we just seemed to be continuing through farmland after farmland.

 

The Palace, Southern Cross, selling for less than a fifth of its
value.

Southern Cross, sounded like to was some made up name for a place that was created as a roadhouse and nothing else, it couldn't be further from the truth, it was a place with a lot of history and some magnificent old buildings, especially the pub (The Palace Hotel) where we stopped to have lunch.

 

It was a grand old lady, and obviously had had a lot of time and effort spent on it.  The place was actually for sale and we were told that the land and building had been valued at $6.9million yet it was for sale for just $1.5million.  it seemed like a bargain, but I couldn't see there being too much patronage, Southern Cross is actually quite small and the passing traffic would mostly be that, just passing.

 

While refuelling at Southern Cross, tensions started to boil over a little, for no apparent

reason they just did, perhaps we were all spending too much time together.

 

We got on the road and were soon followed by four Australian Defence Force riders on large capacity adventure bikes, no doubt none of these had ever seen any dirt and probably never would.  They caught up to us doing around 1300kph and quickly passed, only to slow down to just below the speed we were doing.  What the hell were thee dickheads doing?  Not long after they pulled off the road, it was all a little dangerous.

 

They soon caught us again and then did exactly the same thing,, pulled in front of us and then slowed.  I was starting to get a little angry and when I relate this to something that I had had confirmed during the Long Ride proper, it just pissed me off even more.

 

I'd been told that the ADF personnel and civilians that support them are able to do the Long Ride at the expense of the tax payer.  The ride is considered to be adventure training.  WTF?  None of them do anything adventurous except ride theirs bikes while the rest of us have to pay for it themselves.  And this is at the same time that the Australian government is considering increasing taxes.  I wouldn't mind so much of these guys donated their time and a little effort to raising awareness of men's health but to them it's a paid holiday at the tax payers expense.

 

By now I was stewing on this knowledge and a little shitty but what happened next was the trigger for me to let loose.

 

Memorial to the Boorabbin bushfire

We'd stopped at a roadside stop, near the Boorabbin National Park, here was a small memorial to three truck drivers who had died in a bushfire in 2007.  All three had been caught in their trucks and had perished.  I walked off into the scrub to find the memorial and reflect on a friend of mine who had died in the Linton (Victoria) bushfire in 1998, almost 8 years to the day earlier than these three truckies.

 

While sitting there I heard the sound of a bike approaching, the only way it could be coming was down the walkway towards the memorial, it was one of our riders and I was furious.  How could someone be so insensitive and selfish?  I asked that very question and was told that it wasn't important, it wasn't like it was a grave.  Red rag to a bull comes to mind.

 

It's fare to say that I lost my shit and told the rider to fuck off before I fucked him off.  Words were exchanged and for a while it looked like friendships would be lost, thankfully it blew over very quickly and all was repaired, but I do still standby my reason for being furious.

 

View from the best pub accommodation I have ever seen.

Ninety minutes later we were at Kalgoorlie and checking into one of the best pubs I have ever stayed at, The Palace Hotel, yes another one.

 

Across the road was one of Kalgoorlie's famous 'scimpy' bars, and after a few ice cold pints the days stresses were soon forgotten.  Tomorrow we'd have a good look around this gold mining town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Long Ride 2016 - Day 10

April 17, 2016

Margaret River, WA to Perth, WA - 280km (4,480km)

Waking with a killer hangover is never good, but a night of beer, wine and bourbon will do that to you.  The knowledge that day 10 of the Long Ride 2016, and the new challenges it will bring, was only a short one of 280 kilometres was some comfort.

 

The Quality Inn Margaret River put on a great breakfast for us and the day dawned with spectacular sunshine.  It looked like it would be a great day, and the hangover was just a small inconvenience.

 

There has to be a point when I'l return to Margaret River and spend more time with Justin and his team at the Quality Inn, the place is brilliant and offers some of the best service I've ever seen.

 

After saying our goodbyes to many of the friends made over a number of Long Rides, we set off for the capital city of Western Australia, Perth.

 

The support from the Quality Inn Margaret River was just amazing

The first destination was to be the town of Busselton.  The first town we came to threw up a surprise.  There were statues of cows all over the town, some just grazing on grass in parks, others waiting to cross the streets, and some even walking into shops.  It was street art at it's best, and it didn't occur to me until we had passed through the town that the place was called 'Cowaramup', yep another 'up' name, and this one with a very clever play on the name.

 

As we came into Busselton it was clear that the weather was turning, dark clouds were forming quite rapidly, there was no doubt it was going to rain at some point.

 

We passed through Busselton and then on to Bunbury when the heavens did open.  The rain started as a fine drizzle but soon became heavy rain that persisted on and off for the next few hours.  By the time we stopped to put on wet weather gear I was already soaked to the bone so there was little point, the temperature was actually still quite warm so at least it wasn't too unpleasant riding in the rain.

 

Reaching Perth it was great to get out of the wet clothing and just relax as the next day would be a rest day before taking on stage two of the Long Ride ....