Distance - 234km (6324km)
Weather - Sunny 32 degrees
For me today was another hard day, we were supposed to have ridden from Marla to Coober Pedy via the Oodnadatta track, a ride that would highlight the toughness of the Long Ride 2014. As the last time I was on 'dirt' I was thrown over the handlebars this ride, even in the Love Bus, was now off, we would get to the opal capital of the world via the Stuart Highway.
The nights sleep was pretty restless and in fact my shoulder was giving the worst pain since the 'off', but I couldn't complain, a shower and a bowl of Jordan's granola would hopefully this everything.
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| Good god, a cure for pain killer side effects |
I was a little concerned when brushing my teeth to find that there was a warning by the sink saying not to drink the water. Too late, I'd already downed about a litre of the stuff ... maybe it would offset the side effects of the pain killers.
With the Love Bus packed we set off down the road following the Ghan rail line south. We git underway at around 9am and the weather was perfect - not too hot.
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| Just one of the smaller road trains |
The road was a little 'busy' with tourists and road-trains, the occasional cow was also on the road but didn't really cause a problem and before long we were at Cadney Station roadhouse.
A number of riders were already here enjoying breakfast, the same that had stayed the night at Marla.
A few other tourists had stopped by however, it seems that the Cadney Station roadhouse is more for the truckers in the area. The awning for the bowsers is massive, you could probably get a 747 under it rather than a few bikes or Love
Once inside the bar / cafe area it surprised me how nice the place was and the lady serving was lovely, she mentioned she had asked the Long Riders on the way up if anyone had a collection tin she could put on the bar, no one did so we were happy to oblige. It's great to see that the support for the PCFA would continue in this neck of the woods.
Ordering a latte at this place came as a surprise, after paying the money we were given a mug and told that tea, coffee and chocolate were "over there". Yep we had to make it ourselves and it was as good as anything you'd get in Lygon Street.
Back on the road we were soon into what I would call 'real' desert; flat arid land, totally devoid of major plant life. This is what I had been looking forward too. The land soon became to resemble another planet, in fact I'm pretty sure I saw one of the Mars rovers trundling along.
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| The real desert at The Breakaways |
After around an hour on the road we came across strange domes on the horizon, this seemed to multiply the closer we got and it soon became clear that we were moving into the opal fields. Coober Pedy here we come. |
| The road to Coober Pedy |
Approaching the town I just had to see The Breakaways. These are a perfecxt example of the arid landscape. From the flat topped mesas to the stony gibber desert, remnants of millions of years display a vast vista that is geologically stunning with some of the most amazing views. It's said that over 70 million years ago this was all under a vast inland sea. The Beakaways are a great secret and it would be brilliant if they stay that way. Incidently they are called The Breakaways because early explorers saw them from a distance and thought that they looked as if they were breaking away from the horizon. |
| WTF ... we have to be told how to walk? |
If I thought The Breakaways were impressive then I was in for a treat when pulling in Coober Pedy. It was pretty much the same as I remembered from nearly thirty years ago although slightly more modern.
if you are into the weird and wonderful them this place is for you, there's no wonder that Mad Max - Beyond Thunderdome was filmed out this way. The place is just bizarre, I love it.
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| Underground bedroom 2014 style |
We checked into the Lookout Cave motel. A place that is built into the side of one of the towns larger hills or 'mullock' heaps. It was brilliant moving our gear into the underground rooms, I now know what it would be like to be a mole. Surprisingly the rooms were larger than I thought and a lot more comfortable.
We were soon off exploring the town, a place that reminded me of Sovereign Hill, only a hundred years later. There seemed to be no planning to the place, people just built where they had originally dug for opal, it was beautiful in an eclectic way.
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| Coober Pedy from the Big Winch |
The first stop was the Big Winch. I lookout type place that was now run by a Danish lady who said she had lived in Coober Pedy for almost 30 years. She said it was a hard life but she loved the lifestyle. She'd bought the Big Winch after it had been derelict for about 10 years and it was clear she had big plans for the place, turning it into a show room and cafe, the Belgian waffles were amazing.
Our host explained how opals form and what the different grades were. She mentioned that Coober Pedy produces the most high quality opal in the world but not the best, this comes from Lightning Ridge in New South Wales.
On the way into the Big Winch I'd noticed a strange place just slightly higher up the road. It was a very strange place with weird signs and sculptures. One sign jumped out at me - "Free Opal". The ploy worked, I was in.
Walking up to the door a little old Asian man looked up frrom his newspaper and asked where we were from. Melbourne was the reply.
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| Oh my, where's love ... and the spell check? |
"Ooh that far," he responded. "Not far as me. I from Hong Kong".
It turned out here had been here since 1979, probably to make his fortune. It hadn't eventuated, as he invited us into his home it was evident he was doing it tough.
He showed us through to a small display room with many beautiful examples of the stone.
"You like? You buy", he thrust upon us.
One example immediately jumped out at me, in amongst the Priced from $35 selection. I thought I would be getting a bargain.
When I suggested the one I liked he mumbled, "Seven monkey shine".
I thought what's the crazy old bugger on about and started to hand him $35.
"No, seven monkey shine", he started to get agitated.
"What the hell is he on about?" I thought.
"Seven monkey shine, seven monkey shine"
Oh, seventy five dollars was what he meant. I confirmed and he responded, "yeah, seven monkey shine".
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| A hole the size of a wheelie bin & someone worked in there all day. |
I tried to haggle but all he did was throw in a few small clear opals, as he snatched the money from my hand. I thought I had been done and walked away slightly pissed.
The next stop was the Old Timers Mine & Museum. A shop built around a former mine and residence. It was okay but anyone who read my last Long Ride blog would know I'm not a fan of cheap manaquins or wax figures.
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| Underground bedroom 1914 style |
The mine itself was amazing, it has me buggered how people worked in these conditions and many still do - cramped, dusty and dangerous. It was an interest place, but probably does need to modernised a little.
The day soon came to an end with a pizza at John's Pizza & Bar, easily one of the best pizza's I have ever had. As well as a chat to a lady who asked if we were on the Long Ride and whether I had hurt myself on it. The story was explained and she seemed to show her appreciation for what we were doing.
It was an interest day that certainly took the bitterness of not being on a bike away. And looking around at a few places it turned out that 'seven monkey shine' is a very good price for the opal, it should be perhaps three hungry ducks ...
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